Over the years, we’ve seen numerous styles of jeans grace the catwalks and high street. Everything from baggy denim to skinny jeans is among the most popular trends. However, finding the right fit is still one of the most challenging aspects of bagging your perfect pair. Traditionally, the advice was to buy a tighter pair of jeans in the hope they stretch a little but not so much they lose their shape. However, modern designs have taken the hard work out of buying the best denim for your body shape, well, almost! It’s all in the stretch.

Check out our short guide to stretch denim, which includes handy tips on how to sew with this versatile fabric.

stretch denim fabric

What is stretch denim fabric?

Denim garments often designed using different types of stretch denim fabric. Here are some of the most popular stretch denim constructions.

100% cotton denim fabric

100% cotton denim is a traditional choice in denim production. However, this fabric will always stretch out. Cotton threads naturally stretch when worn and never return to the original length. When washed and dried, they will shrink back, but will stretch out again once worn.

To find perfect 100% cotton denim, especially jeans, opt for a smaller size if you’re looking for a tighter fit. However, if you want comfort, opt for a slouchy fit or choose vintage denim fabric that has been previously worn in.

98/2 stretch denim fabric

This style of denim is primarily designed in cotton. Still, it contains a small percentage of elastane or lycra to give it a subtle stretch. These fabrics will stretch out over time, so opt for a smaller size for a snug fit. Avoid washing this denim fabric in hot temperatures, as the heat will damage the elastane.

4-way stretch denim fabric

4-way stretch denim is constructed with fabric that stretches in four directions. This style of fabrication helps to hold the shape of the clothing to create a comfortable and flattering fit. Most modern designs include elastane or lycra, which also supports the subtle stretch and overall shape.

Super stretchy denim fabric

This style of denim fabrication is most commonly known in the design of jeggings or skinny jeans. The cotton denim fabric is typically mixed with other materials such as polyester and elastane to provide a stretchy fit that bounces back. The style moulds to your shape and stretches well. As long as you follow the care instructions, super stretchy jeans will retain their shape well over time.

Silhouette-enhancing stretch fabrics

Many brands are experimenting with different fabric compositions to bring customers figure-enhancing denim. Much like the construction of super stretchy denim fabrics, these styles use hidden support within the design to enhance areas of the body. These styles are typically made with a cotton, polyester and elastane mix to ensure a good fit and retained shape.

Stretch Denim Picks

5 tips for sewing with stretch denim

Denim is one of the most popular fabrics to create garments, so check out these tips if you’re using stretch denim fabric for your next project.

1. Treat denim-like regular woven fabric

When working with stretch denim materials, treat it as regular woven fabric and use straight stitch seams.

2. Get the fitting stage right

Before creating your garment, focus on the fitting stage to get the best fit. Stretch denim will relax a little when worn so fit the fabric slightly snug to allow a slight stretch in the material.

3. Pre-treat the fabric

Denim fabric is available in a wide range of colours, weights and stretch. However, with all materials, it’s important to pre-treat it to prevent shrinkage or colour bleeding.

4. Use a denim needle

Denim is a hardy material, especially when sewing with heavier weight fabrics. Use a strong denim needle, which is typically sharper, to help you sew through thicker fabric.

5. Start with lightweight denim fabrics

If you’re new to sewing with stretch denim, start with lighter weight fabrics. This denim composition is easier to control and presses well.

Stretch denim FAQs

How do you stretch denim?

Denim fabric naturally stretches when you wear it. However, if it’s too tight, consider wearing your jeans while damp and move naturally in them to stretch the fabric.

Is stretch denim durable?

Stretch denim typically contains elastane, lycra, and acrylic materials, which is susceptible to damage from frequent wear and washing compared to regular denim. Stretch denim may wear out more quickly over time.

What makes stretch jeans stretchy?

The stretch element in denim is created using other materials within the construction, such as elastane, lycra and acrylic.

Does sleeping in jeans stretch them?

There are anecdotal references that sleeping in your jeans can loosen the fibres. However, this may not be very comfortable, especially if they’re really tight!

Do jeans stretch as you wear them?

Most denim fabrics will stretch a little when you wear them. 100% cotton denim will stretch the most over time. In contrast, denim fabrics with a 4-way material composition will hold their shape for many years. 

Does denim fabric stretch over time?

Yes, but it depends on the fabric. Cotton denim fabric stretches the most. However, denim with a mix of synthetic materials holds the shape and fits the body when washed according to the care instructions.

Should I size down in stretch denim?

Stretch denim jeans generally have an element of flexibility, so choosing your regular size will often be suitable. Sizing down could result in an uncomfortable fit.

How do you break in 100% cotton jeans?

100% cotton denim is more rigid than stretch denim fabric. This composition will naturally stretch over time as the threads lengthen. However, to stretch them quicker, wear your denim frequently.

How should I wash stretch jeans?

Stretch denim fabric can wear out more quickly than regular denim due to the synthetic element in the garment construction. To get the most out of your stretch jeans, always wash and dry according to the care label.