What is Calico Fabric? History, Uses & Care Guide

Calico fabric is a very useful material, but many don’t know much about it and its use. However, it features in more places than you might think. So let’s take a closer look at calico and why it’s a top fabric choice.

So, what is calico fabric?

Calico material comes straight from the loom, and it is 100% cotton that has not been dyed or bleached. This gives it a naturally occurring creamy grey colour. The fabric’s texture perfectly balances coarse and soft materials. For example, it is stronger than muslin but less robust than denim. In addition, you would be forgiven for calling it canvas, as it shares similar characteristics.

Origins of calico fabric

Calico fabric dates back centuries, with designs originating in the 11th and 12th centuries. However, its discovery by Europeans in the 17th and 18th century brought this versatile fabric to the masses.

The fabric was first created in the southwestern state of India called Kerala and is named after the city Kozhikode, also known in English as Calicut.

During the 18th century, English traders imported calico fabric to the UK and this caused tension with the established wool trade in North England. As a result, companies hoping to protect the textile market tried to influence law changes and bans on calico materials.

While this was primarily unsuccessful, the British market flourished and started weaving and printing cotton on home soil. Then, in the 1800s, cotton was imported from the US, and machinery was created to weave fabrics together quickly and, ultimately, cheaply.

How is calico material made?

Calico material is made on a loom and is often known as half-processed cotton because it does not go through any other finishing or treatment process after it leaves the loom. It is also referred to as a loom-state fabric due to this process.

Other fabrics created in this way include:

• Muslin
• Canvas
• Cheesecloth
• Gauze

How is calico fabric used?

Calico is incredibly versatile, and one of its most common uses is in garment design. It is a cheap material and, therefore, can be used to show a mock-up of a proposed garment before it is made using the final fabric. These dummy garments are known as ‘toiles’.

It can also be used for making soft furnishings, curtains, bags, aprons and more. Although it may not be as heavyweight as something like denim, it can cope with a large amount of daily wear and tear. When used for most of these projects, it has been dyed or printed on to create colourful, inspiring designs.

Benefits of calico fabric in garment design

Calico has many benefits, including the fact that it is so cheap. This is in part because it comes straight off the loom and starts from just a few pounds per metre. So it’s still great for any home sewers to use either for their final product or a mock-up design. It’s also very popular because of the untreated state - this means it can be tie-dyed, printed, or changed in many different ways. Therefore can be useful in any project and any colour scheme.

It’s also more durable than many other fabrics for daily use. This is why it is often considered ideal for high-traffic items like bags and aprons that are used in lots of potentially messy situations every single day.

Caring for calico material

Calico fabric is also easy to look after if it does get dirty. It can be washed in a machine provided it is a warm or cold wash under 30°. On the first wash, the calico may shrink about 10%, so it’s advisable to wash it before you start to cut your pattern and sew with it.

Sewing with calico fabric

When it comes to using calico in sewing projects, it is easy to cut and work with. The raw nature of this material gives you a blank canvas to create various items and bespoke designs. Plus, it’s super affordable, which provides you with a great value material to experiment with.

At Dalston Mill Fabrics, we have a high-quality selection of natural calico fabrics perfect for your next project. Take a look at the collection here.